Choosing a Betta Tank

An Ideal Tank Setup

 

Buying your first Betta or Fighting Fish can be a wonderful experience that can have you hooked on the hobby for a life time after all they are a truly beautiful fish with a great personality to match. While it should be an exciting time it can also be a rather confusing one. With so many so called “Betta” products on the market you may find yourself unsure of what sort of tank you should buy your new fishy friend. What you may not realize is that the choice that you make when it comes to buying your fighter a home could have a large impact on your Betta’s health.

Perhaps the most controversial topic when it comes to keeping Bettas is tank size, and if you’ve done any research on the topic you will no doubt have found that there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Many pet shops display and sell tiny Betta tanks and while these are convenient for the pet shops to display the Bettas that they have for sale they are NOT suitable for a Betta to live in long term. No fish including fighting fish can survive in these tiny tanks. Ammonia builds up very quickly (ammonia is toxic to fish) and either kills them outright or puts them at risk of often fatal bacterial infections.

The minimum sized tank that you should buy for a single male or female fighting fish is 10 Liters with the ideal size being 20-25 Liters. Fighting Fish are beautiful creatures it is only in a tank of this size that you can hope to keep your betta healthy and enjoy the full benefits of these beautiful fish, they love to stretch their fins and go for a good swim. No one wants to see such a magnificent fish cooped up in a tiny tank lying on the bottom looking depressed because he is ill from the water and has nothing to live for.    

Another important topic to take into account when buying a tank for your Betta is the tanks shape. There are many different shaped tanks on the market and although unusually shaped tanks may be appealing you need to first take a few things into consideration before rushing out and buying one. Fighting Fish are well known for their excellent jumping abilities which can obviously land them into some serious trouble, they have even been known to wriggle themselves through tiny gaps in the lid which means that having some sort of lid or cover for their tank is a must to prevent disaster.

As far as bowls are concerned I personally would not recommend buying one for a fighting fish. Apart from the fact that bowls are usually less than 10 Litres in volume and therefore unsuitable for any fish to survive in they usually do not come with a lid. Their round shape also makes fitting a heater to the side near impossible and because of their small surface area after adding a filter there would be little room for the fighter to move. In fact a lot of the more unusually shaped tanks have this problem and it is for this reason that I consider the traditional rectangular shaped tank the ideal tank for Bettas.

Once you have bought a suitable tank for your fish you need to buy some essential equipment to run it. Like all tropical fish fighting fish cannot handle fluctuating water temperatures as it lowers their immune system and puts them at risk of all sorts of nasty often fatal diseases. To keep a fighting fish healthy you will need to provide a constant water temperature using a fish tank heater. The size of the heater that you will require for your new tank will depend on how many liters that the tank holds. The general rule is that one watt heats one liter of water so a 25 liter tank would require a 25 watt heater. You can work out the approximate volume of your tank my multiplying the length x Width x height (of the water level) and then dividing the answer by 1000. These measurements must be taken in centimeters for this calculation to work. 

For example- 45cm length x 25cm width x 20cm height = 22500

                      22500 divided by 1000 = 22.5

A tank with these dimensions holds approximately 22.5 liters.

When you buy a heater make sure that it has a thermostat (if it doesn’t then it could cook your fish) also ensure that it is a fully submersible heater as they are much safer to use. It is a good idea to leave heaters plugged in all year round. Although they won’t come on much during summer if there happens to be an unexpected cool snap in the weather then you won’t have to worry about your fish getting sick because of the sudden change in temperatures. Many pet shops do not sell heaters smaller than 25 watts, it is okay to use a 25 watt heater to heat a 10 liter tank as long as the heater has a thermostat to stop the water overheating. It is always recommended that you buy an aquarium thermometer so that you can keep a regular check on the water temperature. 

Filtration is another important topic when it comes to betta health. Filters help to maintain water quality and prevent the water in the tank from going stagnant. All fish tanks including betta tanks require some sort of filtration. It is important to take into account when buying a filter that fighting fish are not the best swimmers which means that a lot of filters create a current that is far too strong for a fighting fish. Most internal power filters have this problem. The ideal filter for a betta is the simple corner or box filter as they only create a gentle current that suits bettas perfectly and with the help of an airline valve the strength of this current can even be adjusted. To run a box filter you will require an air pump and some airline tubing. A word of caution avoid buying a tank with an inbuilt power filter as these filters are often way too powerful for the size of the tank and completely unsuitable for fighting fish.

Now that you have a suitable tank and all the essential equipment to run it the fun really begins because now you can decorate your tank. There is really no limit as to how you can set up your fighter’s home however there are a few guidelines as far as decorations go. If you want plants in your aquarium don’t buy plastic ones as these will tear your fish’s fins and may scratch his sides so either buy live aquatic plants or if you don’t have time to keep real plants then silk weed is a good alternative. As far as ornaments go avoid anything with sharp or pointed edges. Also be wary, although most ornaments that are specifically designed for fish tank use are safe always keep an eye out for things like peeling paint. As long as you take care to avoid these things you can let your imagination run wild when creating your betta his own little world.

How to hatch baby brine shrimp (BBS)

Stop emptying when the water turns clear

WHAT YOU NEED

+ Brine shrimp eggs
+ Salt (non-iodized, i.e. standard supermarket rock salt – also called “aquarium salt” to make you pay a bit more)
+ Water (tap water is fine and it doesn’t need to be “aged”)
+ Bottle (0.5 – 2L, glass or plastic)

WHAT YOU MIGHT NEED

+ Air pump (unless you want to shake the bottle, the cheapest air pump will do just fine)
+ Super fine strainer (e.g. tea strainer)
+ Air stone (for less noisy operation)
+ Turkey baster (for seperating the baby brine shrimp from the left over egg shells)
+ Heater Read more »

How to prepare and feed fry using egg yolk

1. Hard boil an egg

I’ve received several requests from people wanting to know more about how to prepare and feed egg yolk to young fry. I had the same problem once, so I thought I’d write up an article and share it with everyone!

I’m not an expert, so don’t hesitate to GIVE ME SOME FEEDBACK on my methods and perhaps better ways by replying to the article.

YOU WILL NEED

+ 1 egg
+ 1 spray bottle (can be bought for around $2 from just about anywhere… Woolworths, Bunnings Warehouse, Super Cheap Auto)
+ 1 ice cube tray
+ 1 strainer with fine mesh

PREPARING THE EGG YOLK FOR FREEZING

1. Hard boil the egg (about 12 minutes in boiling water) and let it cool in some cold water. Read more »

Anatomy and abbreviations

Siamese fighting fish anatomy

CT = Crowntail
DeT = Deltatail
SD = Super delta
HM = Halfmoon
HMx= Halfmoon (not 180 degree)
OHM = Over Halfmoon
VT = Veiltail
PK = Plakat

Tail types (cadual fin)

DT = Double tail
SPT = Spadetail
ST = Single Tail

Patterns Read more »

Betta (Siamese fighting fish)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

Platinum/gray super delta male betta

Betta, Bleeker, 1850, is a genus of freshwater fish in the gourami family (Osphronemidae), found predominantly in Southeast Asia. The type species is the spotted betta (B. picta), but the best-known species is the Siamese fighting fish (B. splendens). Many Betta species are well-suited as aquarium specimens.

Until recently, Betta was a member of the anabantid (Anabantidae) family, and many older references continue to use that classification.

The term “betta” is used as a common name for species of the genus, but it often refers specifically to B. splendens. The first syllable of the name is formally pronounced as the word bet, not bait; even though the name has no connection to the Greek letter beta, it is commonly pronounced as the Greek letter, to the consternation of purists. Read more »

Fighting fish with other species in the same tank?

Question posted by Dave: Will siamese fighters get along with any other species in the same tank?

I can’t give you an experts advice as to what fish siamese fighters get along with, but I have seen them together with other fish many times. As long as the fish are equal in size there shouldn’t be any problems. Female fighters can be kept in the same tank, given enough room and some time to get used to each other. Male fighters have to be kept seperate from other male or female fighters.

A better description (from VickiPS, Ipswish, QLD)

Individual bettas vary in temperament, and a very aggressive male may not tolerate tank mates, but generally a single male betta will get along in a community tank with other non-aggressive species that aren’t (a) nippy (and likely to be tempted to nibble on a betta’s fins) (b) either too slow, too active or too timid, and (c) fancy-finned (and therefore likely to provoke the same reaction as another male betta). Other labyrinth fish species are best avoided, too.

It limits choices a bit, but corydoras are usually compatible, as are many of the non-aggressive tetra species (eg. neons, diamond tetras). Harlequin rasboras and pacific blue-eyes are other possibilities. I’ve had a male betta sharing a tank with 3 albino corys and a bunch of neon tetras for nearly a year, with few problems.

What is the best thing to feed fighting fish?

Tough question, I’d just have to answer it to the best of my ability. I wouldn’t know in terms of nutrition, but fighting fish absolutely loves live foods such as bloodworms, mosquito wrigglers and full grown brine shrimp. Usually you can get hold of these from your local fish shop, but it’s also quite easy to go out and find it yourself.

There are kits that come with brine shrimp eggs and growth food.

For mosquito wrigglers and bloodworm just put a small piece of fruit or vegetable in an old sock and leave it in a bucket of water in the garden for a week. I guarantee you’ll have heaps of little wrigglers after a while. Let them grow (just not for too long!!!) and then simply pour the water through a net catching the wrigglers.

Other than live foods pellets work just fine – that’s what we feed all our fish most of the time.

About the Siamese fighting fish (betta)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

Male (veiltail) Siamese fighting fish

The Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens) is one of the most popular species of freshwater aquarium fish. It is a member of the gourami family (family Osphronemidae) of order Perciformes, but was formerly classified among the Anabantidae. It is native to the Mekong basin in Southeast Asia.

The natural colouration of B. splendens is a dull green and brown, and the fins of wild specimens are relatively short; brilliantly-coloured and longer-finned varieties have, however, been developed by breeders (see In the aquarium, below.)

In the wild, the Siamese fighting fish inhabits standing or slow-moving water, including floodplains and rice paddys, at temperatures of 24–30°C (75–86°F). Carnivorous, it feeds on zooplankton and mosquito and other insect larvae. Read more »

What does ray splitting mean?

The 4-, 8- and 16-ray description refers to the number of terminal branches of each individual ray. If the caudal (tail) rays divide (split, branch), then divide again, you’ve got 4-ray splitting (1rayx2×2=4): if they divide 3 times, 8 rays (1×2x2×2): 4 times, 16 rays (1×2x2×2x2) and so on.

Thanks to Vicky for this description!

How long does a Siamese fighting fish live for?

Generally people say two years, but I’ve also heard of fighting fish living closer to nine years.

The fish you get from your local fish shop might live less than this as they are already at least six months when you get them.

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